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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-29-2008 12:23 AM
1QUACKER The lead sled allows you to make sure your scope is right on, what I mean by that is their is no shaking from holding the gun or holding your breathe or flinching. If you want to shoot accurate you need to make sure it is properly sighted and how it performs with diffrent ammo THEN you can add all the recoil pads you need and practice shooting in other positions. When you do this then you know that it is you not your scope being lose or your gun performance that is causing you to group inconsistent. Shoot with confidence knowing that it has been properly sighted in and work on your shooting technique. This can also be a great tool for teaching kids to shoot-no recoil, allowing them to get used to the noise when the gun goes off and consistent trigger pull , then let them free hand shoot or whatever position you want but at least they know before hand it is sighted in. For 99 bucks it is well worth the investment.
12-28-2008 09:54 PM
wormsoaker
recoil

Instead of the lead sled why not get a Knoxx industries stock? Check it out it's a springloaded stock! Moves up to 1 1/2" to reduce recoil. I can't wait to get one for my 870 rem. ( not recomended for semi auto's ) also made for Win. and Mossb. and for a few rifles (Howa,weatherby,etc....) I only use my 870 for deer and turkey with different barrels for each. It's a tossup as to which hits harder but, if I had to choose I'd say the turkey loads hit harder since you're throwing almost twice the lead ( some are up too 2 oz. ! though not my first choice) Definitely get a fully rifled barrel, the ammo selections for sabot's are superior to old slugs in every way.
12-06-2008 03:48 PM
rdtj
Rifle Barrels

Several years ago I picked up a fully rifled barrel for my Browning BPS Stalker. With a 4X scope and Winchester Partition Gold Slugs (and plenty of practice) I consistently get sub 3" groups at 100 yards and sub 5" groups at 150 yards. However, I don't think I have ever taken a shot over 65 yards. The places I have gone haven't forced me to take a longer shot. Practicing on a bench is one thing, shooting in the field is another.
12-06-2008 04:48 AM
Bill P
iron sights for slugs

When you sight in a slug gun with iron sights you had better do it for 100yds. Due to the extreme drop in trajectory at that range if you are sighted in for 50yds your then necessary hold over for 100yds will have your front sight covering a huge portion of your intended target.
12-05-2008 02:11 PM
FishArt I couldn't do it with my pump, but was okay with my 12 GA, 11-87 auto.

I didn't know what a Lead Sled was and had to do a search on it. Pretty nifty idea, but a tad expensive for those folks like me that have a dedicated deer gun and don't need to site it in very often (In fact, I've got the removable barrel and I didn't even take a practice shot this year because it's been dead on every other year when I put it on). When I bought the set-up, I had it bore sited for $25 at Mega Sports. Two shots and a few turns on the scope and I was done! Never again will I try siting in a gun w/o at the very least getting it bore-sited first. I probably saved almost that much on the cost of slugs it would have taken to get 'er done w/o the bore siting...
12-05-2008 12:47 PM
funfishing tubes gave me the best advice last year when he suggested getting the led sled for sighting in the slug gun. I was able to sight in at 100 yards with 3-4 inch groupings in less than 12 rounds. The led sled is the only way to accurately sight in the slug gun. If you are just shooting trying to get the gun aligned, how accurate and steady can anyone hold a 12 guage slug gun after 9 or 10 shots? I know that by that time my shoulder is feeling it and i am more than likely unconsiously anticipating the recoil and therefore not follwing through on the shot. In my opinion, the ONLY way to sight in a slug gun, as well as it is also nice to sight in other guns as long as you have it already
12-04-2008 08:57 PM
mrmoc Going out with the bow tomorrow. But I see some great gun deals out there and I'm just not doing my part with the bow. I think this discussion cleared up a few things for me. I've been going back and forth whether to pick up a slug pump or muzzleloader. The ML prices are just too good right now, but I like the versatility of the sluggo. However I think 12 ga. is more wallop than I need. But I think the ML may have a longer range (by 50 yds), better accuracy and less recoil. Generally cheaper to buy/more cost for ammo & maintenance.
12-04-2008 03:55 PM
Mother I put 10 rounds through my 1300 last week. My shoulder was and still is kind of smoked. I hope I didn't develop a flinch.
12-04-2008 02:21 PM
The Little King That lead sled makes sighting in a slug gun pretty easy. Last year Tubes helped me sight in my 695 with his lead sled. I was really surprised and how much recoil it ate up. After 7 shots I was dialed in without separating my shoulder



12-04-2008 10:44 AM
ghost Another set -up, my old Ithica m-37 has a 'slugster' barrel. Short, iron sighted and can't shoot better than what i USED on deer the last 7 years. I put a newer barrel that has screw in tubes, a 26" smoothbore. I picked up a rifled choke tube which sticks out another 2". Put Williams glo-sights (open) on the ribbed barrel. My first preference for ammo is the
2 3/4" Brenneke rifled slug. I'm confident of hitting the vitals (6"plate) at 60yds. I put that barrel on and take usually one shot and i'm ready. Did i ever mention how i hate to shoot slugs at targets...
i guess a lead-sled would be the ticket for a multi-gun owner. and don't forget the ear plugs/muff.
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