[Jerkbate]

Or rather, any suggestion on how to make sure the transducer mounting bracket does not leak through the holes I have drilled in the aluminum transom? I saturated the area with silicone caulk last year and it "mostly" worked. There was just a slight seepage in the area. I was thinking of some sort of backing plate on each side to allow a larger area for more goop, but figured maybe someone else already figured out a better way. Thanks.

 

[no limit]

I had similar issue. Back the mounting screws out, remove transducer. Place generous amount of silicone to area. Too much is better than too little. Reinstall, let dry, remove excess with stanley knife if you applied too much. Dont remove to much or try to pull away.

It worked for me. Good luck

 

[ffishman]

If it were me, this is what I would do. First, remove the transducer all together. Fill the holes with GOOD marine caulk. Next, get youself a transducer mounting board(cabelas, bps etc) Install that. Caulk the new holes ( a lot) and then run a bead of caulk around the whole new board. Finally, install your transducer. Don't worry about the new holes. If you don't like the position, easy to readjust. Buy a new locator, no problem, just drill more holes and install new transducer. PUtting holes in the new board is easy and they do not extend into the boat. No leaks

 

[2sac]

When I purchased my boat at the dealer it appears they epoxied a solid pvc block approximatly 2"high x 6"wide x 1"thick on the transom to mount the speedometer sensor. I used that same block to mount the transducer. Good luck

 

[Mark Komo]

Ffishman hit it on the head. Get one of those boards and mount that.

Caulk the holes first, the mount the board. Then mount the transducer to the board. It should also leave plenty of room for other gadgets to mount. Looks clean and leak free.

 

[aekhoff]

Use gorilla glue on the board. Some type of pvc or plastic material. But the key is that GORILLA GLUE it is polyurethane and will last and hold FOREVER.

 

[KP]

I bought the long transducer mounting board from Cabelas and mounted it vertically so the screws were ABOVE the water line and caulked the entire board in place. That is the way the owners manual for my Lund boat insructed me to do it.

Below is a link to a picture of my previous boats transducer mount. My current boat has a much wider board with transducers and speed wheel mounted.

http://www.walleyecentral.com/photopost ... ser=103403

 

[Guest]

Board is nice. A friend used the large size and it has more screws than the transducer would have required!! :lol: FYI; I havea 1986 Lund and have just screwed my transducer, speed/temp directly to the transom. Use a good brand of silicone sealant and SS screws.

 

[Jerkbate]

Hey, thanks for all the replies! Gives me a few things to think about before I tackle the project.

The references about the mounting board make me smile a bit, since I used to have the transducer mounted to a PORTABLE board in the days before I had a boat. I would just C-clamp the board onto the rental boat and take off. That was fine till I rented a boat with a gasoline outboard...Rooster-tail into the back of the boat because the board extended below the boat! Oops!

 

[KP]

On my first couple of boats, I C-clamped a 20" long, 3/4" x 4" wooden board with my transducer mounted to it in order to find the best location on my transome to permanently mount the transducer. Changes in hull shape, strakes, even rivet heads can create just enough turbulance to get air bubbles under the transducer face which effects what you see on the screen. That's the great thing about the large mounting boards. It's easy to change transducer locations.